In an era of change and challenge, the Italian city remains an essential gathering place.

In an era of change and challenge for made-in-Italy brands, Milan Fashion Week remains a critical place for the industry to gather — and look forward. Here are the top shoe highlights from the city’s footwear presentations. Check back for more throughout the week.

Jimmy Choo’s ‘Refined’ Glamour

Call it a full circle moment. As Jimmy Choo marks 28 years, creative director Sandra Choi — who’s been there every step of the way — is taking a look back at the brand’s formative years and giving house classics a definitive twist for fall ’24. “As designers, we always take the temperature of where fashion is, and the feeling now goes back to day one of Jimmy Choo. The ’90s is very much a backdrop,” said Choi, who has Kate Moss — in all her different stages — on the Choo mood board. Standout styles include the Mary Jane mule (the brand first introduced the style in 1998) fused into a navy sock-boot with a pointed vamp on a low slender heel. The Brooklyn biker boot is offered in an ankle or knee-high version, topped off with Choo’s Diamond buckle. And the brand’s Drop heel takes the spotlight once again, as seen on the kitten heel and ankle boot in an on-trend red hue. The Diamond hardware is also key on bags, from a new tote to quintessential shoulder bag.

Jimmy Choo’s signature Drop heel, as seen on this on-trend red kitten heel. RICHARD VALENCIA

Giuseppe Zanotti’s Timeless Classics

“Less fireworks, more consistency.” Giuseppe Zanotti, who’s growing tired of fashion’s relentless demand for the new and the next, said he is focused on timeless classics and ’90s-inspired minimalism for fall ’24. Geometric lines define the diverse range of heel heights, from comfortable block heels to sky-high stilettos, for which the brand is known. Details like crystal embellishments adorn squared-toed mules. The collection also includes footwear essentials, like the ballet flat and riding boot. Color palettes are neutral, in line with the classic aesthetic. “It’s not something for one season only. Every single shoe is created for the long-term. We need to respect the work,” said Zanotti, who is keeping materials, quality and proportion at the forefront as he designs these days.

How Sergio Rossi Is Riding Into Fall ’24

With a new CEO on board and a refreshed vision, Sergio Rossi is galloping into fall ’24 with a day-to-night collection inspired by horse riding — specifically side-saddle riding born in Italy during the 1300s at the court of Mantua. Craftsmanship is key and detailing takes cues from saddles and harnesses, with classic riding boots, over-the-knee boots and moccasins embellished with buckles. Elsewhere, Rodeo-inspired looks, like the new banana heel, evoke Texas style.

Hogan Looks Back, Forges Ahead With Expansion

As Hogan embarks on a mission to transform into a full lifestyle brand — and plots Stateside expansion — the brand is celebrating its Milanese heritage for fall ’24. The Tod’s Group-owned label, founded in 1986, reimagines and upgrades its core sneakers, with tennis shoes, runners and sport shoes taking inspiration from the 1980s archives. “We were really the first luxury sneaker to come to America. At that time, the market wasn’t ready,” recalled Andrea Della Valle, vice chairman of Tod’s SpA. “We deserve to come back.” Beyond shoes, the Script bag also comes back into play, reworked with new proportions and details. An expanded ready-to-wear assortment is also on tap as the brand aims to combine city style with luxe craftsmanship. Also new for the season, a new “address” logo emphasizing the brand’s deep connections to its birthplace.