Economic obstacles and geopolitical crises dampened the mood at Micam this week — but footwear brands and retailers attending the bi-annual show were focusing on fresh opportunity despite the uncertain climate.

This edition of Micam, the largest international trade show, brought together 923 brands, 464 of which were Italian. The other 459 exhibitors came from outside Italy, with Spain, Turkey, Brazil, Germany and Portugal all strongly represented.

A number of Italian players at the show — which wraps up on Wednesday — said they have been grappling with sales declines after an up-and-down 2023. Overall, turnover in Italy’s footwear industry reached 14.6 billion euros last year, and exports grew slightly — but a recent downturn is causing anxiety.

“Worrying signs have emerged at the start of 2024 and we expect a further slowdown, for at least the first half of the year,” said Giovanna Ceolini, chair of Assocalzaturifici and Micam. “The economic situation is affected by a difficult international climate dominated by geopolitical events and risks, and tight financial conditions for households and businesses.”

Ceolini said made-in-Italy brands must stay the course, and she believes the situation will likely improve by early 2025.

The U.S. has been a particularly tricky place to crack during the past few years, and Italian exports to the market declined about 20 percent in 2023 during a tough period for the industry.

American buyer attendance at this edition of Micam was impacted by overlapping dates with several other major stateside trade shows, including the Atlanta Shoe Market and Coterie. But for retailers who did make the trip, the event gave them an opportunity to differentiate themselves from their competition.

“It’s challenging [to do it all] when the [other shows] are happening right now. But in a way, it’s kind of better for us that there are only a few Americans here,” said Peter Lawson, vice president at Shoe-Inn, a family-owned retailer with 10 stores across New York, New Jersey and Connecticut.

Lawson said he was energized by the newness on display this season. “The last three or four shows, we were seeing the same combat boot, the same loafer. Now it feels special and different,” he said.

The retailer said Western looks, Mary Janes, strappy flats and new iterations of the loafer were on his must-buy list. Sneakers and boots, however, were not a priority this season. “Boot season has been tough, so we’re going to have a lot of carryover,” Lawson said.

Doug Becker, who helms Canadian independent retailer Becker Shoes with his son, Bradley, said Micam was an “exciting experience.”

“We get to see trends six to eight months out. The show helps us justify some of the designs our current vendors are showing us,” Becker said. “We also look for new vendors that are not available in Canada to help round out our assortment. We are always trying to give our customers something a little different than other retailers may offer.”

New Exhibitors Fuel Excitement: Buzz from Bruno Magli, Philipp Plein and Katy Perry Collections

While Micam attracts many tried-and-true players season after season, new exhibitors are always a highlight. This time around, Bruno Magli, Katy Perry Collections and Plein Sport all made big statements on the show floor — and all three brands are forging ahead with ambitious growth plans.

Marquee Brands-owned Bruno Magli is looking to make a comeback in Italy, a country that has always been important to the heritage label’s story. “The brand is proudly made in Italy and has remained authentic to this,” said Tim Reid, executive vice president of Marquee Brands’ fashion division.

Since Marquee acquired Bruno Magli in 2015, the company has been focused on building the label in North America with Vida Shoes International. Now Marquee has teamed up with Liquid Lab to reintroduce the brand in Europe — with a focus on a contemporary design aesthetic.

“It is the perfect time to highlight Bruno Magli in Europe again, and there has never been any doubt that Italy is the brand’s home. We look forward to building a significant presence here again,” Reid said.

It’s no surprising that Philipp Plein has big plans for his Plein Sport brand, which he relaunched in 2022. The sneaker-focused label is embarking on a major expansion this year, with a focus on both the wholesale and DTC arenas. In fact, Plein said he aims to open 300 standalone Plein Sport stores globally in the next several years; a standalone Las Vegas location is set to debut in April.

The ambitious entrepreneur, who greeted fans and customers at Micam on Tuesday, said he wants to outfit the gym-obsessed consumer who is looking for new footwear options.

“The gym is where you socialize today — where you meet your partner, where you go with your friends,” Plein said. The designer’s goal is to take market market share from Nike and Adidas, while also competing with Lululemon and Alo Yoga — two brands that are making big moves in the shoe space this year.

“We are targeting sports stores, specialty stores, and we also have a big request also from the fashion stores,” Plein said, adding that smart pricing is key in the performance athletic segment. The sneakers are priced from 99 euros to 600 euros, and “the biggest share of the market is between 80 and 120 [euros],” Plein said.

Like Plein, Katy Perry has a distinct vision for her fashion business, Katy Perry Collections, which made its Micam debut. The songstress purchased the brand outright in 2021 after her former partner Global Brands Group USA Inc. filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. “I decided to take complete ownership and level up, find great partners, develop my team and put into practice all of the education I have learned,” Perry told FN in 2022.

While Perry — who is also releasing new music this year — was not at the show, her team said they are executing on Perry’s vision to take the brand global. At Micam, the label attracted interest from retailers in Singapore, Indonesia and Spain, among other international countries.

For International Brands, Investment is Key for Success in the U.S.

While the U.S. market has been challenging for many international brands, a number of big names at the show said they are seeing momentum, thanks to their intense focus and willingness to invest in regional offices and teams.

Spanish label Pikolinos — which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year — has prioritized the stateside business for the past 23 years, and the brand has a dedicated office in Miami.

“Since the beginning, we’ve focused on developing the market and communicating with our customers. We listen a lot and understand how we need to adapt — customer-service wise, product-wise and through marketing. We’ve made many mistakes, but we’ve been very open to feedback,” said president Juan Manuel Perán Bazán. “We have a special DNA and a [point of difference].”

Salina Ferretti, CEO at Falc SpA — which owns Naturino, Flower Mountain, Voile Blance and other labels — also believes that winning in the U.S. is dependent upon having the right team on the ground. That’s why her daughter, Katherine, moved to the U.S. last year to oversee marketing as the company — which is marking 50 years in business — builds its presence. Falc also opened a new New York showroom last December, and now has 10 dedicated people working in the market.

Brazilian powerhouse Grendene — parent company of Ipanema, Melissa and Rider, among other brands — is also doubling down on expansion via a recent joint venture deal 3G Radar. The new entity, Grendene Global Brands, draws on 3G Radar’s business management expertise and Grendene’s manufacturing capabilities.

“We decided to focus our investment on five markets — the U.S., Canada, Hong Kong, China and Taiwan,” said Alexandre Gastaldello, director of exports for Grendene, which derives 70 percent of its business from its home market of Brazil.

This year, Ipanema is turning to Shakira to help fuel its international business, and at Micam, the brand unveiled its new collection backed by the pop star.